Antioxidant phytoingredient from Brazilian biodiversity with cosmetic applicability to prevent the signs of skin aging
Kalanchoe laciniata. Antioxidant. Cosmetics.
Kalanchoe laciniata (L.) DC. species (Crassulaceae), popularly known as saião and
white coirama, is a small plant that is an easy cultivated plant that has in its chemical
constitution active metabolites used in products to prevent the signs of skin aging. In
cosmetics, the addition of plant active ingredients in nanoemulsified systems has
received great prominence, due to the smaller droplet size, sensory and more pleasant
physical aspect. Given this fact, this work aimed to develop cosmetic nanoemulsions
with antioxidant activity to prevent skin aging, using hydroethanolic extract of
Kalanchoe laciniata leaves. For this, a hydroethanolic turboextraction with 50% ethanol
(v/v) was carried out using fresh leaves in a 1: 1 ratio (plant:solvent) (w/v). The extract
obtained was quantitatively characterized in relation to the concentration of phenolics
and total flavonoids. The antioxidant potential in vitro was evaluated using different
antioxidant methodologies: 2,2-difenil-1-picrilhidrazil (DPPH) radical scavenging, 2,2′-
Azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS˖+) radical scavenging, total
antioxidant capacity, reducing power, superoxide radicals scavenging, Cu2+ and Fe2+
chelation and hydroxyl radicals scavening. Nanoemulsions were obtained form an
experimental design (2³ + 3PC) by low and high energy emulsification methods,
characterized by droplet size, polydispersity and zeta potential and then evaluated for
their preliminary and accelerated stability under different storage conditions. The
extract showed the presence of phenolic compounds, flavonoids and antioxidant
activity. A cosmetic nanoemulsion stable for 90 days was obtained, containing 20% of
emollient, 5.0% of surfactants, 1% of preservative, 0.5% of the Kalanchoe laciniata
hydroethanolic extract, and 73.59% distilled water. After 90 days in different
temperature conditions the nanoemulsions produced by the high energy process were
considered stable. Thus, the results indicate the antioxidante potential of the
Kalanchoe laciniata hydroethanolic extract as a cosmetic raw material for preventing
the signs of skin aging, as well as demonstrating the viability of an innovative
nanoemulsified cosmetic product.