STREET FOOD: AN ETHNOGRAPHY AT THE CITY 2000 GASTRONOMIC SQUARE
Keywords: anthropology of food; sociability; Fortaleza.
ABSTRACT
This research reflects on street food as a social practice rather than a merely nutritional one, serving as a democratic form of food due to its availability in various locations, affordable prices, and diverse options. Eating is not just a biological act; it highlights customs, enables the recovery of memories, and provides moments of leisure. The objective of this work is to conduct an ethnography to understand the food practices at the Cidade 2000 Gastronomic Square, located in a middle-class neighborhood of Fortaleza, Ceará. The food fair operates daily starting at 6:00 PM and is attended by local neighborhood residents, as well as an increasing number of visitors from other neighborhoods and tourists. To achieve this objective, a mapping of the square's organization, the products offered, and a classification of the types of point-of-sale vendors were carried out to identify food preferences and cultural symbols associated with the dishes. Additionally, a qualitative analysis of the vendors' perceptions and experiences was conducted to explore their motivations, challenges, and sales strategies. Finally, the study investigated how food is consumed and whether it corresponds to specific culinary practices of Fortaleza—such as eating "pratinho"—which evoke a local gastronomic tradition.