QUILOMBOLA CUISINE IN THE NEW WORLD (PE):
politics, culture, and heritage
cuisine; political strategies; tanajura; heritage; quilombo
The cuisine produced by quilombola communities has been publicised through the actions of organised civil society and governmental actions, placing food at the centre of political debate in Brazil. Among these actions, Quilombola cuisine stands out, a category that has come to designate a set of gastronomic know-how mobilised in identity affirmations, rights claims and demands for public policies, but which has also proved to be a strategy for community-based tourism. This study describes and analyses the contexts in which certain food items come to be identified as quilombola. The field research was carried out between 2023 and 2025 in the Mundo Novo quilombo in Buíque, in the agreste region of Pernambuco. The thesis aims to understand how the category ‘quilombola cuisine’ reveals political strategies and the symbolic system that organises food (Gonzalez, 2020; Geertz, 2019). I would also like to mention a food that stood out during my fieldwork: tanajura. This delicacy is widely consumed by residents of both urban and rural areas of the city, but it is not considered part of Quilombola cuisine. The handling of tanajura reveals local knowledge, as well as a food tradition experienced in annual cycles. To construct this study, in which cuisine was treated as a cultural category, I used various qualitative research tools: I conducted semi-structured interviews, attended cultural and political events, mapped audiovisual and written productions about quilombola residents in Mundo Novo, and kept a field diary. Among other results, I showed that one of the consequences was that culinary production in quilombo territories began to be treated as a topic of cultural policy and government action, including through the heritage designation of these items.