SOCIAL CLASSIFICATIONS OF FOOD: QUILOMBOLA CUISINE IN MUNDO NOVO (BUÍQUE/PE)
cuisine; quilombola; coffee; tanajura
This study aims to identify the implications of recognizing local food as quilombola cuisine and the effects of this recognition on social dynamics and access to government policies. I describe how classifications of local food influence the social experiences of families who self-identify as quilombolas. I observed how a local food practice, the consumption of tanajuras among residents of the municipality, including quilombolas, appears as an invisible food heritage. The field research was carried out between 2023 and 2024 in the quilombo Mundo Novo, in the agreste region of Pernambuco. To construct this study, I used various qualitative research tools, especially the comprehensive methodology developed by Kaufmann (2019). I argue that by being defined as quilombola and the object of government actions and policies, local foods are given new meaning, valuing the knowledge and practices of historically marginalized groups.