The hands that stir the pots: the traditional Serido cuisine and the Technical Regulation of Good Practices for Food Services in the city of Caicó/RN
Kitchen; tradition; memory.
This work stems from the provocations brought by the arguments of the Brazilian Cooking Manifesto (column Paladar of the newspaper Estadão) and the Colher de Pau Manifesto (Brazilian Forum of Sovereignty and Food and Nutrition Security - FBSSAN), which deal with how the Technical Regulation of Good Practices for Food Services (RDC 216/2004 - ANVISA) limit / prohibit traditional culinary practices. It seeks to know: what aspects constitute this situation of conflict between traditional cooking practices and the technical standard? What's more, how do traditional culinary practitioners judge RDC 216/2004 in its application in traditional space? The spatial selection chosen was the City of Caicó, state of Rio Grande do Norte, and aims to know the practices of the regional cuisine of the city of Caicó / RN, trying to understand how the cooks have reacted and responded to sanitary requirements; to understand the extent to which cultural forms of cooking are in conflict with technical standards and to what extent they re-signify; understand what "good practice" means from the standpoint of tradition by comparing it to the point of view of the norm. The methodology applied was Interview in Depth (PERDIGÃO et al., 2011). The theoretical framework is based on the context of reflexive modernization (GIDDENS, BECK and LASH, 1997) to discuss tradition, identity and memory, analyzed from the point of view of the Food Grammar, according to Montanari (2013).