THE INFLUENCE OF LINE TENSION ON SEWING IN KNITTED AND WOVEN FABRICS BASED ON STITCH
Industrial sewing; Thread tension; Knitted fabrics; Woven fabrics; Sewing speed; Stitch formation.
In industrial sewing, the quality of the final product is strongly influenced by parameters such as thread tension, machine speed, fabric type, and stitch type used. Improper adjustments can lead to stitch defects, fabric deformations, thread breakage, and even overheating in the sewing area, directly affecting the productivity and durability of the product. Knitted fabrics and woven fabrics, due to their distinct structural characteristics, respond differently to these variations, requiring specific care in the manufacturing process.
This study aimed to analyze the influence of thread tension on stitch formation in knitted and woven fabrics, considering variations in sewing machine speed (1,000, 2,000, and 4,000 RPM) and the type of stitch applied.
The research was conducted through experimental tests, using different combinations of thread tension and fabric types, simulating real industrial production conditions. Aspects such as fabric integrity, thread breakage, and temperature rise in the needle and thread area during high-speed sewing were evaluated.
The results showed that, at low speeds (1,000 RPM), thread tension exerts a less critical influence, allowing greater tolerance without compromising stitch quality. However, at higher speeds (2,000 and 4,000 RPM), thread tension becomes a determining factor, requiring strict control to prevent excessive friction, overheating, and stitch formation failures. Knitted fabrics showed greater sensitivity to variations, with deformations and irregularities under extreme conditions, while woven fabrics demonstrated greater dimensional stability. Sewing speed, fabric type, and stitch type are determining factors for the final sewing quality, ensuring efficiency and quality both in industrial production and in academic contexts.