THE INFLUENCE OF LINE TENSION ON SEWING IN KNITTED AND WOVEN FABRICS BASED ON STITCH
Industrial sewing; Thread tension; Knitted fabrics; Woven fabrics; Sewing speed; Stitch formation.
This research aimed to analyze the influence of thread tension on seam formation in knitted and woven fabrics, considering the variation in sewing machine speed (1,000, 2,000, and 4,000 RPM) and stitch type. The study was conducted through experimental laboratory tests, using different thread tension settings and fabric types, simulating real industrial production conditions. The effects of thread tension on stitch regularity, fabric integrity, thread breakage, and temperature increase in the needle and thread area during high-speed sewing were evaluated. The results indicate that at low speeds (1,000 RPM), the influence of tension is less critical, allowing greater tolerance without compromising stitch quality. However, as speed increases (2,000 and 4,000 RPM), thread tension becomes a determining factor, requiring strict control to avoid excessive friction, overheating, and stitch formation failures. Knitted fabrics showed greater sensitivity to variations in tension and speed, with deformations and irregularities under extreme conditions. In contrast, woven fabrics demonstrated higher dimensional stability, responding better to increased tension. Additionally, it was observed that shorter stitches require lower tension to maintain uniformity, while longer stitches, although more tolerant to tension, are more susceptible to instability at high speeds. The study concludes that the interaction between thread tension, sewing speed, fabric type, and stitch length is crucial for the final seam quality, making precise adjustment of these parameters essential in both industrial and academic contexts.