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Dissertations |
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1
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PEDRO PAULO ASSUNCAO PEREIRA MAURICIO
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OBTAINING AND CHARACTERIZING A NEW NATURAL FIBER DERIVED FROM INDUSTRIAL WASTE
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Advisor : JOSE HERIBERTO OLIVEIRA DO NASCIMENTO
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COMMITTEE MEMBERS :
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JOSE HERIBERTO OLIVEIRA DO NASCIMENTO
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FRANCISCO CLAUDIVAN DA SILVA
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RAPHAEL LUCAS JACINTO ALMEIDA
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RUBENS CAPISTRANO DE ARAUJO
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Data: Feb 24, 2025
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Show Abstract
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The search for alternative and environmentally friendly textile materials that meet the goals of the UN 2030 agenda for both processes and products has become increasingly frequent in recent years. Therefore, using upcycling to evaluate the potential of industrial waste in obtaining value-added textile materials is one of the most promising paths in scientific research and with a rich range of applications ranging from cosmetic textiles to medical textiles as well as a source of raw material to obtain new structures. Thus, this research analyzes the potential of a new natural textile fiber, derived from industrial fishing waste, as a promising option for the textile segment for technical and clothing applications. And with the specific objective of developing innovative products in yarn and fabric structures. To this end, microstructural characterization tests were carried out using X-ray Diffraction (XRD), Fourier transform infrared absorption spectroscopy (FT-IR), RAMAN Spectroscopy, thermal analysis of TGA/DTA and DSC, Classifiber, in addition to optical and scanning electron microscopy with field effect (SEM-FEG). The resistance test was also carried out in acid and base media, washing with non-ionic detergent to remove dirt present in the fibers and subsequently, its separation via the carding process. Em seguida, o material cardado foi submetido ao processo de formação de fita numa máquina Uster MDTA3, as fitas seguiram para o processo de fiação. Testes de resistência e alongamento foram realizados no fio produzido. Com o fio produziu-se a malha e com ela uma peça de vestuário tipo gorro. Os resultados obtidos comprovam a potencialidade destas novas fibras têxteis naturais derivada de resíduo industrial na obtenção de um fio de caráter inovador e sustentável, com aplicações em têxteis médicos e de vestuário.
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2
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DANIELLA NATHALIA ROCHA DO NASCIMENTO
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DEVELOPMENT OF CROSS-LINKED NANOFIBROUS MEMBRANES FOR CONTROLLED RELEASE OF ESSENTIAL OILS WITH ANTIMICROBIAL ACTIVITY
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Advisor : KESIA KARINA DE OLIVEIRA SOUTO SILVA
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COMMITTEE MEMBERS :
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KESIA KARINA DE OLIVEIRA SOUTO SILVA
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HELOISE OLIVEIRA MEDEIROS DE ARAUJO MOURA
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MICHELLE CEQUEIRA FEITOR
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LUCIENE DA SILVA SANTOS
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ANDREA ZILLE
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Data: Apr 16, 2025
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Show Abstract
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The development of multifunctional textile materials with a nanometric structure and potential for high-tech applications, using natural components with reduced environmental impact, is the focus of this research. In this context, this study aims to produce water-resistant, sustainable, and biocompatible nanofibrous membranes for the controlled release of antimicrobial natural essential oil derived from cloves (Syzygium aromaticum). Polyethylene oxide (PEO, 200,000 g/mol) polymeric membranes were produced using the electrospinning method, followed by thermal curing with the crosslinking agent tetraethyl orthosilicate (TEOS) to optimize the chemical and mechanical resistances of the PEO fibers. After optimizing the electrospinning and curing methodologies, new membranes were produced with clove essential oil (2 and 5% m/m). The samples were characterized using analytical techniques such as scanning electron microscopy (SEM-FEG), Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), X-ray diffraction (XRD), and thermogravimetric analysis (TG/DTG). The micrographs confirmed that the membranes were composed of fibers with diameters starting at 87 nm. The highest spinning efficiency was achieved with PEO solutions at 10% (m/m) in a 50:50 (m/m) acetone:chloroform mixture, at 90 °C and an injection flow rate of 0.5 mL/min, resulting in membranes with higher yield, fiber density, and handling resistance. The crosslinking of PEO was confirmed by solubility and contact angle tests with water, showing increased hydrophobicity and insolubility of the material. SEM-FEG, XRD, TG/DTG, and FTIR analyses indicated chemical and structural changes that improved the thermal and chemical resistances of the crosslinked PEO. Antimicrobial activity analyses revealed the formation of an inhibition zone around the crosslinked PEO nanofibrous membranes containing 5% (m/m) clove essential oil against E. coli, which remained for 7 days, indicating continued activity of the new material due to the controlled release of the natural active encapsulated by the polymeric fibers. FTIR spectra revealed the presence of eugenol in the membranes, validating the presence of the oil and its main active compound. The produced membranes demonstrated potential for various technological applications, such as dressings, filters, disinfectant films, cosmetics, and active packaging, highlighting the relevance of the obtained results for innovation in the field of advanced textile materials
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3
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RAFAELA PONTES CUNHA
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PRODUCTION OF SUSTAINABLE ADSORBENT FROM YELLOW IPE FRUIT PEEL FOR COLOR REMOVAL FROM TEXTILE EFFLUENT
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Advisor : KESIA KARINA DE OLIVEIRA SOUTO SILVA
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COMMITTEE MEMBERS :
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FABRÍCIO MAESTÁ BEZERRA
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HELOISE OLIVEIRA MEDEIROS DE ARAUJO MOURA
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KESIA KARINA DE OLIVEIRA SOUTO SILVA
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LUCIENE DA SILVA SANTOS
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TATIANA DE CAMPOS BICUDO
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Data: Apr 23, 2025
Ata de defesa assinada:
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Show Abstract
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This study investigated the effectiveness of calcined yellow ipe fruit peel biomass as a bioadsorbent for the removal of Acid Red 447 dye from textile effluents. The material was processed without chemical activation, using calcination in a muffle furnace, and characterized by techniques such as SEM, XRD, FTIR and DLS, which indicated the presence of structural characteristics favorable to adsorption, such as a porous surface. In the adsorption tests, a 2³ factorial experimental design was used, which allowed determining the best conditions for dye removal. The best results were obtained with the following conditions: initial dye concentration (C₀) of 10 ppm, adsorbent dosage of 0.03 g/L, pH 10 and room temperature, achieving an average removal efficiency of 37.7. This value was obtained for Acid Red 447 dye, evidencing the performance of the bioadsorbent produced.
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4
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BRISEIS GONÇALVES DE OLIVEIRA
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Incorporation of Pre-Consumer Cotton Textile Waste into Composite Materials for Application in the Fashion Industry
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Advisor : AMANDA MELISSA DAMIAO LEITE
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COMMITTEE MEMBERS :
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AMANDA MELISSA DAMIAO LEITE
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MAXWELL SANTANA LIBÓRIO
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NAYARA BEZERRA CARVALHO
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SALETE MARTINS ALVES
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Data: May 21, 2025
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Show Abstract
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The textile and clothing industry, in addition to being one of the oldest and largest in the world, also stands out as one of the most profitable sectors. According to UNECE (2018), the sector showed one of the highest growth rates at the beginning of the 21st century. However, this growth has also made it one of the biggest global polluters, as the foundations of the industry are based on unsustainable environmental production and consumption practices. These practices directly and significantly impact the triple planetary crisis, which includes climate change, loss of nature and biodiversity, and, finally, pollution and waste.Textile waste from the fashion industry is a direct consequence of the linear economic production model, which promotes a cycle focused on extracting from nature, transforming into products, and discarding. This system is driven by fast fashion, the predominant model in the fashion industry, characterized by the rapid and large-scale production of clothing inspired by the latest trends. Due to the fleeting nature of fashion trends, consumers are encouraged to purchase frequently and in large quantities, resulting in an accelerated cycle of production and disposal. This production model is based on the use of cheap labor and low-quality raw materials to reduce production costs and maximize the profits of major department store companies.This research aims to present a technological alternative for reverse logistics by considering the socio-environmental and industrial relevance in an attempt to reintroduce this pre-consumer cotton textile waste into the textile manufacturing chain as a new value-added product. In this context, the present project aims to incorporate the mentioned waste into a polymeric matrix, thus obtaining a composite material for application in the fashion industry. The fabrication of the composite materials was carried out using two phase-inversion techniques: evaporation and immersion precipitation, to analyze which method achieved better physical properties.
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5
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MAGNO ROBERTO DA SILVA
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DEVELOPMENT OF A POLYMER COMPOSITE REINFORCED WITH CANINE HAIR
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Advisor : TATIANA DE CAMPOS BICUDO
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COMMITTEE MEMBERS :
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TATIANA DE CAMPOS BICUDO
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EVANS PAIVA DA COSTA FERREIRA
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FRANCISCO CLAUDIVAN DA SILVA
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MURILO JOSE PEREIRA DE MACEDO
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Data: May 28, 2025
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Show Abstract
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The improper disposal of solid waste from non-renewable sources has impacted the environment, especially due to the difficulty of reusing and recycling these materials. One solution to this problem is the use of renewable and biodegradable waste materials to replace others of fossil origin, producing the so-called biocomposites. In this context, the present work aimed to manufacture a polymer composite reinforced with particulate dog wool waste (natural fiber) from pet shops, in order to produce a biocomposite with applications in several areas, such as civil construction and the automotive and sports industries. Initially, the fibers were treated with an alkaline solution to eliminate impurities. After drying, the fibers were taken to the knife mill to undergo the grinding process. The treated and ground fibers were characterized by X-ray diffraction (XRD) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The biocomposite specimens were manufactured in plates, using the open mold process with the hand lay-up technique, with dimensions of 15 cm x 2.5 cm x 0.4 cm. The crushed fibers (reinforcement) were mixed with polyester resin, in proportions of 2%, 4% and 8%, and the mixture was spread in the mold. The samples were evaluated according to the current standards for tensile, flexural, water absorption and SEM tests. The presence of the reinforcement modified the properties of the composite, probably due to the different interactions between the matrix and the resin.
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6
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WAGNER JOSÉ OPOLSKI
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Woven geotextile degradation due to coastal environment weathering
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Advisor : FAGNER ALEXANDRE NUNES DE FRANCA
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COMMITTEE MEMBERS :
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FAGNER ALEXANDRE NUNES DE FRANCA
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JONATHAN MOTA DA SILVA
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JOSE IVAN DE MEDEIROS
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JOSÉ LUIZ ERNANDES DIAS FILHO
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VIVIANE MUNIZ FONSECA
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Data: Aug 28, 2025
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Show Abstract
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This study investigated the degradation of a polypropylene (iPP) geotextile subjected to natural weathering and validated a thermal monitoring system developed for field measurements. The research was based on experimental campaigns carried out in the metropolitan region of Natal/RN, using custom thermal sensors and a weather station to characterize environmental conditions. The sensors showed good thermal tracking performance, with mean absolute errors below 2.5°C compared to a reference industrial sensor, highlighting the importance of prior calibration in a controlled environment. The analysis of environmental data confirmed the reliability of the Plugfield weather station, whose measurements were consistent with INMET data. Tensile tests conducted in two distinct periods revealed the progressive loss of geotextile strength over time, with average reductions ranging from 8.4% to 16.2% in the second period, depending on exposure conditions. The results highlight the cumulative effect of weathering on the material’s mechanical properties and reinforce the need to consider environmental aging in geosynthetics design. The study also demonstrates the feasibility of using low-cost continuous thermal sensors for monitoring exposed geotextile structures, contributing to more durable and safer engineering practices.
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7
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ORLANDINA HELENA FONSECA COSTA PESSOA
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BEHAVIOR OF THE FABRIC IN FUNCTIONALIZED JERSEY WITH ANTI-UV BLOCKERS
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Advisor : MARCOS SILVA DE AQUINO
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COMMITTEE MEMBERS :
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JOSE IVAN DE MEDEIROS
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LUIZ GUILHERME MEIRA DE SOUZA
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MARCOS SILVA DE AQUINO
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RUBENS CAPISTRANO DE ARAUJO
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Data: Sep 9, 2025
Ata de defesa assinada:
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Show Abstract
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Skin protection is the main objective of textiles. Textiles are the barrier between the skin and the environment. Their functionalization with ultraviolet ray blockers does not alter the properties of the yarns, but prevents the skin from absorbing UV-A and UV-B rays. Data regarding the detection of skin cancer in Brazil correspond to 25% of all malignant tumors registered in the country. The main agent is natural ultraviolet radiation, coming from the sun, more precisely UV-B. This study aims to understand the behavior of Jersey knitted fabric functionalized with Anti-UV blockers. For this purpose, three Jersey structures were analyzed and their characteristics and properties investigated regarding the characteristic in the knit, the functionalization and relative permeability to water vapor. The tests were conducted on finished fabrics, the data obtained were evaluated and the results show that the samples are functionalized with Ti02, which is an inorganic, toxicity-free, eco-friendly material that has potential and is used as a UV protection agent. Through SEM analysis, it was diagnosed that the structure and characteristics of the Jersey fabric were not modified after the functionalization of the fabric with UVR, and that the yarns remain woven in the same direction, and that all the samples studied registered permeability to water steam.
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8
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SILVIO FERNANDES DOS SANTOS
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THE INFLUENCE OF LINE TENSION ON SEWING IN KNITTED AND WOVEN FABRICS BASED ON STITCH
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Advisor : MARCOS SILVA DE AQUINO
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COMMITTEE MEMBERS :
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MARCOS SILVA DE AQUINO
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JOSE IVAN DE MEDEIROS
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LUIZ GUILHERME MEIRA DE SOUZA
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RUBENS CAPISTRANO DE ARAUJO
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Data: Sep 22, 2025
Ata de defesa assinada:
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Show Abstract
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In industrial sewing, the quality of the final product is strongly influenced by parameters such as thread tension, machine speed, fabric type, and stitch type used. Improper adjustments can lead to stitch defects, fabric deformations, thread breakage, and even overheating in the sewing area, directly affecting the productivity and durability of the product. Knitted fabrics and woven fabrics, due to their distinct structural characteristics, respond differently to these variations, requiring specific care in the manufacturing process.
This study aimed to analyze the influence of thread tension on stitch formation in knitted and woven fabrics, considering variations in sewing machine speed (1,000, 2,000, and 4,000 RPM) and the type of stitch applied.
The research was conducted through experimental tests, using different combinations of thread tension and fabric types, simulating real industrial production conditions. Aspects such as fabric integrity, thread breakage, and temperature rise in the needle and thread area during high-speed sewing were evaluated.
The results showed that, at low speeds (1,000 RPM), thread tension exerts a less critical influence, allowing greater tolerance without compromising stitch quality. However, at higher speeds (2,000 and 4,000 RPM), thread tension becomes a determining factor, requiring strict control to prevent excessive friction, overheating, and stitch formation failures. Knitted fabrics showed greater sensitivity to variations, with deformations and irregularities under extreme conditions, while woven fabrics demonstrated greater dimensional stability. Sewing speed, fabric type, and stitch type are determining factors for the final sewing quality, ensuring efficiency and quality both in industrial production and in academic contexts.
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9
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MARIANA DIAS DE BRITO ALVES ALADIM
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Architecting the eco-technological future of the fashion industry inspired by emerging AI technologies
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Advisor : JOSE HERIBERTO OLIVEIRA DO NASCIMENTO
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COMMITTEE MEMBERS :
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JOSE HERIBERTO OLIVEIRA DO NASCIMENTO
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KESIA KARINA DE OLIVEIRA SOUTO SILVA
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LUCIANI PAOLA ROCHA CRUZ BARROS
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ILMARA PINHEIRO LIMAO
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Data: Oct 29, 2025
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Show Abstract
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Fashion, a multi-trillion-dollar industry at the center of global trade, is under intense scrutiny for its unsustainable processes and operational challenges caused by trends that change faster than we can blink. The following paper unveils the promising prospects of Artificial Intelligence (AI) within a sustainable eco-technological future for the textile and apparel sectors. Using AI technologies, including machine learning, deep learning, and generative models, the industry can optimize processes and transparency in a more integrated way, aligning with the principles of the circular economy. The reported results offer a comprehensive assessment of AI use in the fashion value chain, from raw material research to the supply chain, with a focus on sustainability and productivity. The bibliometric assessment shows a 484% annual growth in the number of studies published on AI and fashion sustainability between 2018 and 2024, including information from a PRISMA-guided search conducted by Scopus that yielded a total of 2,548 articles, showing China, as well as the US/UK, with increasing peaks in contributions. This master's thesis provides a critical assessment of the future of predictive analytics, quality assurance, automated assembly, and traceability. Advances in AI in recent years have brought challenges such as technological disparities, ethical concerns, and data privacy, highlighting the importance of inclusion and sustainable adoption in our daily lives. Results like this illustrate and conclude that AI holds the promise of transforming the fashion industry into a circular, transparent, and innovative one, aligned with global sustainability goals, such as SDG 12.
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10
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LEONEL ASSUNCAO NETO
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COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF YARN BLENDS CONTAINING A NEW FIBER OF ANIMAL ORIGIN WITH COTTON AND POLYESTER
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Advisor : JOSE HERIBERTO OLIVEIRA DO NASCIMENTO
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COMMITTEE MEMBERS :
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FRANCISCO CLAUDIVAN DA SILVA
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JOSE HERIBERTO OLIVEIRA DO NASCIMENTO
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JOÃO PAULO SARAIVA MORAIS
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KESIA KARINA DE OLIVEIRA SOUTO SILVA
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Data: Nov 17, 2025
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Show Abstract
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This study investigates the use of flying fish (Hirundichthys affinis) fishing waste, specifically the filaments from the production of roe, called Tobiko, as a new textile fiber of animal origin—referred to in this work as Sea's Silk (SS fiber). The research presents comparative analyses between yarns produced 100% with the new fiber and their respective blends with cotton (CO), polyester (PES), and their respective blends in different proportions. Morphological, physical, and mechanical analyses were performed, highlighting twist, tensile strength, elongation, and yarn count, in order to compare the performance of yarns produced from the new fiber with already consolidated fibers, as well as with fiber blends. The results showed that, although pure SS fiber presents lower strength and uniformity, its blends, especially with polyester, revealed significant improvements in mechanical properties, in addition to good elasticity performance. The study concludes that SS fiber is a viable and sustainable alternative for the textile industry, with the potential to add value to a currently underutilized production chain. Furthermore, the use of the fiber offers a sustainable alternative to what was previously an important fishing waste product, with no added value.
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11
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MYRNA ALBUQUERQUE FONSECA
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ANTIMICROBIAL FUNCTIONALIZATION OF GAUZE DRESSING
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Advisor : IRIS OLIVEIRA DA SILVA
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COMMITTEE MEMBERS :
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CLOVIS DE MEDEIROS BEZERRA
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IRIS OLIVEIRA DA SILVA
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KESIA KARINA DE OLIVEIRA SOUTO SILVA
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MICHELLE DE MEDEIROS AIRES
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Data: Nov 26, 2025
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Show Abstract
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The management of cutaneous wounds is a dynamic process that depends on the progression of the healing phases and involves the use of various dressings. However, growing bacterial resistance makes it urgent to seek new technological strategies to optimize tissue repair. In this study, gauze pads made of 100% cotton or a viscose-polyester blend were initially treated with a chitosan solution and then impregnated with silver nanoparticles (AgNPs). The functionalized samples were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, energy-dispersive spectroscopy (SEM-EDS), X-ray diffraction (XRD), and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) to determine the arrangement, crystalline organization, and chemical interactions between chitosan and AgNPs. In vitro antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus was evaluated using the disk diffusion assay. SEM-EDS results confirmed uniform attachment of the nanoparticles to the fiber surface, while XRD diffractograms and FTIR spectra revealed structural changes suggestive of interactions between chitosan and silver. Additionally, the functionalized gauze exhibited a significant zone of bacterial inhibition, demonstrating its antimicrobial efficacy. It is concluded that AgNP impregnation confers promising properties to gauze compresses for use in advanced dressings, contributing to the development of healthcare materials that aid in preventing infections and accelerating wound healing.
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12
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SERGIO BARROS DE MELO FILHO
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Comparative Analysis of Mechanical Performance and Abrasion Resistance of Fabrics for Motorcyclist Protection
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Advisor : IRIS OLIVEIRA DA SILVA
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COMMITTEE MEMBERS :
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IRAN MARQUES DE LIMA
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IRIS OLIVEIRA DA SILVA
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LUCIANI PAOLA ROCHA CRUZ BARROS
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RUBENS CAPISTRANO DE ARAUJO
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Data: Dec 9, 2025
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Show Abstract
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This dissertation aims to comparatively analyze the mechanical performance and abrasion resistance of two fabrics — a technical fabric used in protective jackets and a common knitted fabric — correlating laboratory results with real-world motorcycle accident scenarios. The research employed experimental methods based on national and international technical standards (ABNT, ASTM, and ISO), applying tests for mass per unit area (grammage), tensile strength, elongation, thickness, and abrasion resistance using the Martindale method. Data were statistically treated through calculations of mean, standard deviation, and coefficient of variation to ensure the accuracy and repeatability of the results. The tests revealed that the technical fabric exhibited superior values in all evaluated parameters, particularly in tensile strength (≈ 110–117 Kgf), greater thickness (≈ 0.32 mm), and abrasion resistance up to 83,000 cycles, while the common knit fabric resisted up to 28,000 cycles. These results confirm that fabrics with higher mass per unit area and density provide more effective protection against abrasion, making them more suitable for the development of Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) for motorcyclists. The study also demonstrated that fabric thickness and structural configuration directly influence energy dissipation and delay in rupture during friction — key factors in preventing injuries in fall situations. It is concluded that the use of technical textiles in motorcyclists’ clothing significantly contributes to reducing injury severity in accidents, promoting social benefits by enhancing road safety and guiding material selection for PPE design. Future studies are recommended to expand testing under dynamic conditions that simulate real falls, including varying speeds, angles, and surface types, to better correlate laboratory data with real-world scenarios. Thus, this work provides scientific and practical insights for improving protective fabrics and supporting the development of public policies aimed at motorcycle rider safety.
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13
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KATARINY KELLY DA SILVA SANTANA
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Sustainable Textile Staple yarns Based on Canine Wool and Blends of Synthetic and Natural Fibers
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Advisor : IRIS OLIVEIRA DA SILVA
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COMMITTEE MEMBERS :
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FRANCISCO CLAUDIVAN DA SILVA
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IRIS OLIVEIRA DA SILVA
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RUBENS CAPISTRANO DE ARAUJO
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Data: Dec 22, 2025
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Show Abstract
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The growing concern over the environmental impacts generated by the textile industry has driven the search for sustainable alternatives in fiber and staple yarns production. In this context, the present dissertation proposes the study of canine wool—a byproduct typically discarded during animal care—as an alternative and environmentally viable raw material for the manufacture of textile filaments. This work investigates the feasibility of incorporating canine wool into blends with synthetic fibers (polyester and acrylic) and natural fibers (cotton) at varying proportions (30%, 50%, and 70%), with the aim of analyzing the physical, mechanical, thermal, and aesthetic properties of the resulting filaments. The adopted methodology included the collection and hygienization of canine wool, followed by its spinning in different blend compositions combined with each type of fiber, yielding a total of nine distinct formulations. The samples were subjected to standardized laboratory tests, focusing on tensile strength and elongation measurements performed on a dynamometer in accordance with textile technical standards. The results demonstrated that staple yarns containing up to 50% canine wool exhibited good mechanical strength, maintaining satisfactory levels of elongation and structural integrity, particularly in blends with polyester. When the canine wool content reached 70%, a slight decrease in tensile strength was observed, although elasticity remained within acceptable levels for use in light apparel and accessories. It was noted that the yarns composed of cotton (CO) and canine wool (DW) were not linear; their structure exhibited exposed surface fibers that appeared loose. Consequently, regions with thickened spots were more pronounced in the blends containing 50% and 30% canine wool. Overall, the findings indicate that canine wool possesses characteristics comparable to conventional animal fibers, and its utilization can help reduce environmental impacts while adding value to urban waste.
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