DEVELOPMENT OF COSMETIC FORMULATIONS CONTAINING MULTI-COMPONENT SYSTEM WITH FERULIC ACID: CHARACTERIZATION AND IN VITRO SKIN RELEASE TESTS
Ferulic Acid. Multicomponent complex. Antioxidant activity. Cosmetic formulation. In vitro skin delivery
Phenolic compounds are widely used in cosmetic products for protection against ultraviolet (UV)
radiation, which can harm health and cause skin photoaging. Ferulic acid (FA) shows great
potential in mitigating these effects, standing out for its neutralizing activity against free radicals
that can cause oxidative damage to cell membranes and DNA, aiding in the prevention of
UV-induced cellular damage. However, its use is limited due to its low solubility in aqueous
media and its tendency to oxidize rapidly and decompose into inactive products, making it
unstable. To address these limitations, a multicomponent system was developed containing FA,
hydroxypropyl β-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD), and the hydrophilic polymer PVP K30, named
Cicloferulic® (CF). Its physicochemical characterization was conducted using DSC, TG, and
FTIR tests, and HPLC analysis was performed to quantify the FA content incorporated into the
system. The antioxidant capacity of CF was also evaluated in vitro, both in isolation and when
incorporated into cosmetic formulations such as gel and emulsion at a 0.5% concentration. The
preparation method proved efficient, with a high incorporation rate of the active ingredient and
good yield. FTIR spectra confirmed the formation of the system, showing the inclusion of FA
within the cavity and its interaction with the polymer. DSC and TG curves demonstrated thermal
stability of CF similar to the cyclodextrin used, but lower than isolated FA. Although CF
exhibited superior antioxidant activity compared to isolated FA in two out of three assays, its
efficacy decreased in gel and emulsion formulations. This reduction may be due to interactions
between CF and the aqueous vehicle, which hinder the release of FA because of its affinity for
the apolar cavity of cyclodextrin (CD). This retention may limit FA's interaction with free
radicals, compromising its antioxidant capacity. Future perspectives include conducting safety
tests for Cicloferulic®, evaluating preliminary formulation stability, studying in vitro skin
release using Franz cells with optimized synthetic membranes, and determining the sun
protection factor (SPF) in vitro for CF-containing formulations.