Kalanchoe pinnata (Lam.) Pers. is a plant native to Madagascar that can be found in
Brazilian biomes such as the Caatinga. It has a complex chemical composition with
considerable potential as a raw material for use in cosmetic products. The purpose of
this study was to develop safe, multifunctional cosmetic formulations with antioxidant,
antityrosinase, and moisturizing activities for the prevention of signs of skin aging,
enriched with the aqueous extract of Kalanchoe pinnata leaves. The extract was
chemically characterized through the quantification of sugars, phenolic compounds,
and flavonoids, and its safety was evaluated using 2D and 3D in vitro models, in vivo
and clinical assessments. The antioxidant potential was assessed in vitro and in vivo
using Caenorhabditis elegans as a model organism. Antityrosinase activity was
determined using an enzymatic method. Nanoemulsions were developed based on the
study of the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance using the phase inversion method and were
subjected to preliminary and accelerated stability tests. A high-performance liquid
chromatography method was developed and validated for the quantification of the
marker compound in the nanoemulsions, which were evaluated for safety and clinically
regarding moisturizing efficacy and skin microrelief. The extract contains flavonoids,
phenolic compounds, and sugars, and demonstrated safety for topical use, supporting
the claim "dermatologically tested." It acted at different stages of the oxidative cascade
in vitro and in vivo at the evaluated concentrations and showed antityrosinase activity.
The developed formulations remained stable for 30 days under different storage
conditions, and the quantification of the Bp1 marker demonstrated the chemical
stability of the nanoemulsions, which proved to be safe and effective in moisturizing
and anti-aging benefits. Thus, this work provides scientific contributions and
technological innovation to the cosmetic sector, while also adding value to the plant's
production chain, with the goal of enhancing social development, with the aim of
valuing social aspects, boost the bioeconomy and Brazilian biodiversity.
Kalanchoe pinnata (Lam.) Pers. is a plant native to Madagascar that can be found in
Brazilian biomes such as the Caatinga. It has a complex chemical composition with
considerable potential as a raw material for use in cosmetic products. The purpose of
this study was to develop safe, multifunctional cosmetic formulations with antioxidant,
antityrosinase, and moisturizing activities for the prevention of signs of skin aging,
enriched with the aqueous extract of Kalanchoe pinnata leaves. The extract was
chemically characterized through the quantification of sugars, phenolic compounds,
and flavonoids, and its safety was evaluated using 2D and 3D in vitro models, in vivo
and clinical assessments. The antioxidant potential was assessed in vitro and in vivo
using Caenorhabditis elegans as a model organism. Antityrosinase activity was
determined using an enzymatic method. Nanoemulsions were developed based on the
study of the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance using the phase inversion method and were
subjected to preliminary and accelerated stability tests. A high-performance liquid
chromatography method was developed and validated for the quantification of the
marker compound in the nanoemulsions, which were evaluated for safety and clinically
regarding moisturizing efficacy and skin microrelief. The extract contains flavonoids,
phenolic compounds, and sugars, and demonstrated safety for topical use, supporting
the claim "dermatologically tested." It acted at different stages of the oxidative cascade
in vitro and in vivo at the evaluated concentrations and showed antityrosinase activity.
The developed formulations remained stable for 30 days under different storage
conditions, and the quantification of the Bp1 marker demonstrated the chemical
stability of the nanoemulsions, which proved to be safe and effective in moisturizing
and anti-aging benefits. Thus, this work provides scientific contributions and
technological innovation to the cosmetic sector, while also adding value to the plant's
production chain, with the goal of enhancing social development, with the aim of
valuing social aspects, boost the bioeconomy and Brazilian biodiversity.
Keywords: Biodiversty. Bryophyllum pinnatum. Cosmetics. Moisturizer. Saião.